Art and Linda's Online Pigeon Loft
Pigeon Loft Plans:
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Here is a good little loft. It works very well for me. It is a spin of a loft that I have found on the Internet. It is inexpensive to build, well ventilated and works well for up to 15 pairs of rollers. I keep my breeders to about 10 -12 pairs because during the summer rains when it gets very humid the floor gets wet and I prefer to keep it dry. The ventilation works very well with no drafts on the pigeons or their nests. There is included 2 kitboxes and a spare kitbox that I use for starting youngsters and some times separating adults. I had step by step photos, but I lost them, I will draw the plans out for my loft and you are welcome to use them as is or try this site for more ideas.
Step #1. Using 2x4 studs frame the pigeon loft floor, the outside dimensions are 6ft.wide x 7ft. 11 1/4" inches.
Step #2. Cut 4 sheets of 3/8 OSB wall sheeting to 6ft-6in. Using a square and a friend screw the plywood to the sides of the floor flush with the bottom. I used 2" drywall screws for this. Next bevel 2-8ftx2x4's 63.5 or 18.5 degrees depending upon the way your saw reads angles. Fasten these to the top of the wall as in the following drawing. Screw from the outside with 2" drywall screws about every 6-8".
You are now ready to frame the door. I used an old wooden house door. I cut it down to 61" high, now you might want to adjust the wall height and the door height I did hit my head twice and both times were .... well a sore head. Cut two studs to fit between the floor and the beveled 2x4's and fasten them into place allowing 1/8" of space on the sides of the door. Next cut a header 2x4 that is 1/4' longer than the door is wide. Fasten this 1/4" higher than the door is tall. Make sure every thing is true, straight and square. From the out side using 2" screws fasten the wall to the door studs.
Step #3. The end walls. It might be an advantage to cut the end walls to shape before attaching the sidewalls. The floor makes a good place to lay out the cuts. First cut a sheet of OSB in half the long way. You will end up with 2-2ft x 8ft pieces. Now lay a full sheet and a half sheet side by side on the floor. Measure the outside at 6ft-6ins and exactly in the center measure 7ft-6ins. Mark the roof slope on the walls to the marks and cut the pieces. Apply the end walls the same way the sides were applied. Every thing will be quite flimsy but don't worry, it is time to apply the trim.
Step #4. Refer to the following drawing. Where possible attach the trim from the inside of the loft using 7/8" or 1" screws.
Step#5. Now holding a 1x4 to the top edge of the wall draw the end angle and trim one end of the 1x4. Flipping the cut end up to the top draw the other cut. Tip; Use a cut of angle to mark any further angles. Fasten the top trim that goes on the solid sheet of OSB first.
Then attach the top end of the other in place make sure the OSB is tight together and finish screwing the top trim on. Do the edge trim to overlap the other trim. There is a detail of the corner showing what it looks like from the top. Then using the same angle mark and cut the other two pieces of trim. One should cover the joint between the OSB and the other should be equal distance from the other edge to make it look balanced.
Step #6. Cut 2 pieces of 7'11 1/4"long of 2x4. These will be used to finish framing the roof. Look at the second drawing to see how they are positioned. Allow 3 3/4" of space from the roof peak to the plank. Install it square with the top edge of the wall.
You are now ready to put the roof on. I used a clear green house material. It is great in the summer, but snow can be a problem. Also having all that light in the kit box was a problem. I eventually put 1/4" plywood under the clear roof over the kit boxes, because in spring the birds would think it was time to nest and it caused all sorts of problems. Now they are sure it is the dead of winter. I would suggest using metal roofing. Cut it to 3' lengths. This should give you a small over hang.
After the roof is put in place you will have a vent that runs the length of the roof. Cover this using an 8' metal roof cap resting on spacers. Make the spacers out of wood, you will need 6 per side 3/4"x2"x2 1/2" long.
Step #7. You are now ready to put in windows. I don't have any but I have a suggestion.
Step #8. This is a very important step. In the floor under the future nest boxes cut some vent holes. I have 3 that are about 8" square. Be careful not to put them over the floor joist. Cover these up with wire mesh. I used building wire 2x2 mesh. This allows some stuff to fall through and helps to keep the vent working.
Step #9. Install door and paint. After the door is hanging in place you will need to cut some 1"x2" material for a doorstop. That is so that it does not close to far. This might be a job where a friend holds the door closed far enough and you go inside and attach the stop up against the door.
Step #10. Sit back and admire your job.
Finishing the Inside:
You are ready to furnish the inside. I made 3 columns of 5 nests on an end wall, but I feel that this is to many for my loft.
Here is a photo of the new nests with no fronts. I will be putting fronts on soon, but for the winter when the weather is very cold it makes it so much easier to water the birds if I take the kit box doors of and take the nest fronts of. Also no nest fronts means no nesting.
Following are a few photos of me reconstructing my nest fronts from 2 foot to 3 foot. In the first photo I show a 3/8 flat bit that I used to drill holes with to accept the dowels in the nest fronts.
Using parts from my old fronts I am putting together a new front. I reused the door, dowels and end upright. I need to put the top rail next.
Here it is finished. Note the nail head that the black line is pointing to. It goes through the uprights and into the nest door.
The nest fronts are movable. There are 2 positions that they can go. Note the screws, the nest fronts can be lifted up and the bottom slid forward to remove.
On the side opposite the nestboxes I have 4 kit boxes. Well only 3 I have never finished the bottom right one because I did not need the space.
Here is a photo of the out side showing the pigeon doors to the kit boxes. I don't compete because there is no club nearby, but I did fly my birds.
My traps are made of pieces of 3"plumbing drain line. The thin wall stuff. I cut it about 6" on the longest side and at about 45 degrees.
Please write me and let me know how it worked.
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